Workaday Sith.

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Yet another Collette Mabel skirt for Me Made May. I really love this pattern; I’ve made at least 5 variations on it. I call the look on my face “bored Renaissance merchant wife,” but in reality my cheap remote camera shutter thingy only works some of the time and I was frustrated with it. Also: there is no good place in our tiny, dimly lit apartment to take decent photos. Sigh.

None of that makes the skirt any less awesome, though.

I wear a pretty limited palette, by choice. We live in a very small place, with limited storage. More of my separates coordinate with a limited palette, and I need fewer shoes, too. Although I do wear other colors, the vast majority of my clothes are black, red, or grey — a color combination I like to think of as “Workaday Sith.” Most of what I sew stays within this palette, and most of the garments themselves are pretty basic — what sewing bloggers tend to call “cake” (as opposed to fancier “icing”). I would never be an exciting sewing blogger (I don’t sew quickly enough, anyway), but I look pretty put together most of the time, and that’s easier to do with fewer colors in the mix.

It’s not a method that works for everyone, and sometimes I envy people who wear the entire rainbow, but this works for me. And that’s what personal style is all about.

Ch-ch-change it.

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I very rarely look at a sewing pattern and say, “That’s it, no changes.” Besides altering to fit, I very often — almost always — fiddle with design elements, too. I change sleeves and necklines and hemlines, and just about everything else.

Today for Me Made May, I’m wearing an April Rhodes Staple Dress. Sort of. I mean, part of the shoulder seams from the original pattern are intact. First off, the pattern is intended for woven fabric, and I made it in a knit. I lengthened it a bit, graded up the hips, omitted the elasticated waist shaping (because I always wear a belt with it), and completely changed the neck and cut-on sleeves/armholes by tracing a ready-to-wear tank that I found at a thrift store. It was a peculiar tank — kind of wide-shouldered-but-not-quite-cap-sleeved and a little blousy, but not too blousy. I loved that tank, but it was made of very cheap rayon knit and pilled like crazy after just a few washes. (It had pretty obviously never been worn when I boughtΒ it.) Now the best parts of that tank can live on forever, only in a better fabric.

I sew very much the same way that I cook. A sewing pattern, like a recipe, is a suggestion — a jumping off point. You can follow it to the letter, but if you see potential for something else in it, you can change it as much as you want. Sometimes you fail spectacularly, but sometimes you get exactly what you had in mind. And that’s how I feel about this dress.

It’s so comfortable. With nothing to pinch or bind, it’s one of the first dresses I reach for on a bad pain (or panic) day. It’s loose and cool in the heat, but it works well with tights and a cardigan when it’s cold out, too. I really love this dress.

Mutant curves and long arm selfies.

I’ve sewn on and off for over 20 years, sometimes very seriously (and for a time as a theatrical costumer). Even so, I have plenty of sewing failures. Yesterday I sewed up a muslin for a pair of trousers, and they fit horribly: 3 inches too large at the back waist, much too small in the thighs and knees (which is not a problem I usually have), and with a crotch curve better suited to a mutant than a human. These trousers were a Hot Mess.

And I don’t understand it, especially the mutant crotch! I can walk into Forever 21+ and buy a cheap pair of jeans with a perfectly reasonable and decently fitting crotch curve. It’s not a store known for its incredibly well-fitting goods, either. Same with Target. Or, sometimes, Lane Bryant. (Lane Bryant also suffers from Mutant Crotch Curve on some of its trousers — but only some, and only some of the time. It’s pretty much random.) I don’t understand why pattern designers are putting crazy crotches on trousers these days. Even the Big Β 4 sewing pattern companies draw better crotches than most indie patterns I’ve seen, at least on the larger sizes. And say what you will about Burda, but they understand a crotch curve.

This is the third different-but-similar indie trousers pattern I’ve made a muslin of then discarded. I could make 3 or 4 more muslins until I worked out the fit, I guess, but I don’t have the time or energy to do that. I’m going to trace off my favorite stretch woven trousers and work from there instead. At least the crotch curve will be great.

Harrumph.

Anyway, today I wore an old space dye t-shirt for Me Made May. It was the first t-shirt I ever made that I thought was good enough to wear — and it has held up really nicely. It’s a Greenstyle Centerfield Raglan tee, though I no longer remember the particulars. I never made the pattern again, much to my shame, because it had droopy wrinkles in the sleeve/uppper bust area that I couldn’t figure out how to fix. But oh well! It’s a perfectly fine tee, and I love the fabric. (Made entirely on a regular sewing machine, too.)

I didn’t have time to mess with the tripod, so here’s a long arm selfie.
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MMMay16 – Bonus Day.

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I committed to only Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays…but realized I was wearing something I’d sewn after I got dressed today. So here’s a bonus day!

The grey skirt is a Collette Patterns Mabel skirt lengthened to copy a ready-to-wear ponte pencil skirt that I got from (of all places) Forever 21 a long time ago. I just traced off the bottom of the skirt for the length/shape, & added a vent in the back (instead of the Mabel kick pleat). I really like the Mabel waistband, which stays up without added elastic — and actually fits me better than the RTW skirt does. Another bonus: even at this length and at my size (XL at waist, graded to 2X at the hips), this skirt can be made with a single yard of 60″ wide ponte knit.

I like the va-va-va-voomness of this skirt. With a top like this — or a peplum top — I look way more hourglass-y than I actually am. I’m vain enough to appreciate that.

The tank is Old Navy, & the mesh cardigan came from Re/Dress (maybe 2 years ago), but I made the elastic belt, too.

Taking the plunge, and the pledge.

After several years of hemming and hawing, I’ve finally decided to participate in Me Made May. Here’s my pledge:

“I, Sarah L. Crowder, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’16. I endeavor to wear at least one me made item every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday for the duration of May 2016.”

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Since it’s a personal pledge, I’ve decided on only Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays because I don’t have an extensive self-made wardrobe at this time, and because those are the only days I normally leave the house.

I’ll try to post some photos online, but I may or may not get around to that — and probably won’t manage to do it every single time, even if I do manage to get some in. I’m just being realistic about that.

I’m definitely not “binge” sewing to participate, but I am going to use this time as an excuse to finish several things I’ve already cut out. (I tend to cut out a few things at once whenever my energy is good, so I can sew them together bit by bit whenever I get a chance, so this isn’t unusual.)

I do wear my self-made clothes on a regular basis, but I thought it would be fun to add the challenge of wearing them more often — and making a point to wear them. I wasn’t sure I really had enough self-made items to participate even on this limited scale, so I made up a list of garments I already had that would be office appropriate (sorry, bunny print lounge pants — you didn’t make the cut). I was surprised by how many I already had! I’d never thought about it. My self-made clothing is already fairly practical, and it works with the rest of my clothing, so I never think twice about reaching for it on any given day. There’s no DIY stigma in my closet, that’s for sure — but I thought it would be fun to put my own work in the spotlight for a change.

I’ve also wanted to participate more over on the Curvy Sewing Collective, but so rarely take the time to take pictures of what I’ve sewn that I’ve only ever posted once in their Flickr group. So this is also a nice excuse to get involved there, too.

So here’s to a productive Me Made May 2016!

Making lemonade, sewing-style.

Although I generally wait to buy new sewing patterns until I have seen them sewn on a wide variety of body types (read: not just thin people), I took a chance and bought a brand new indie sewing pattern last week.

And now I regret it.

I don’t want to name names here, because A) I would just be needlessly throwing shade, and B) It’s mostly my own fault, and could have happened with any other indie pattern. But anyway, I paid upwards of $15 for a pretty wonky pattern, and I feel a little burned.

Part of the problem is that some designers do not give enough information about the pattern itself. I have not been able to find really basic info on the pattern in question, like what height the pattern is designed for, or what cup size. Somewhere on the designer’s website it says, “for average height,” which could mean anything, especially since average heights vary from place to place. Maybe they think average height for women is 5’6″! (Here’s a hint…it’s not, at least not in the U.S.)

Now, I’m a fat person. I’m sized out of many indie sewing pattern ranges, and I’m at the tippy-top for most of the others — as in the largest size, and then maybe outsized at the hips. I know how to alter for that; it’s not a big deal (no pun intended). I have narrow shoulders, and although no one would call me busty (I wear a 42B, you guys), I have a 4 1/2 inch difference between my upper and full bust measurements. In sewing terms, not bra terms, that makes me a D cup! Most sewing patterns only have 2 inches difference between the upper and full bust measurements, so the first pattern alteration I ever learned to do was the full bust adjustment. I am accustomed to making “regular” patterns fit my “plus” body, but…I need some basic information to know where to start.

I have only sewn one other dress pattern by this designer, and I had trouble with it, too. And it was a sewing blog darling! I had seen it on women of many different sizes and shapes, and thought it would work for me, too. But the fit through the shoulders was terrible, the neckline gaped a bit, and the exaggerated A-line in the skirt seemed to have been drafted incorrectly at the largest size, as it was comical in its inflation. I wore it twice, then donated it to Goodwill. I hope someone with strong, wide shoulders found it, and is happily wearing it today.

In that case, I did blame myself. I didn’t make a muslin (test garment), and suspected that I should have made a smaller size at the shoulders just by eyeballing the pattern. But I thought, it’s a knit, it’s forgiving — and I was in a place where I had sewn several frustrating things in a row and I just wanted to finish something simple. But that dress was undeniably a dud.

I had hopes for this new dress pattern. It was breezy without being too voluminous, and had a nice modern look to it. But it also had a tulip skirt, which seemed like a strange choice for a pattern that obviously called for drapey fabrics. I took the plunge and got it anyway.

I made a muslin the day after I bought the pattern, which is light speed for someone like me. For example, I still haven’t sewn a Colette Moneta dress, yet I bought the pattern pre-release! I am not on the cutting edge of sewing, generally speaking. Anyway, the muslin had Problems with a capital P. At the largest size, the tulip skirt was straight up ridiculous looking. I mean, it looked like jodhpurs in skirt form! Even in a drapey fabric, that was going to look bananas. The sleeves were okay, though I didn’t personally like the length on me — and I cut the neckline for a much smaller size, so it was A-OK. I ended up drafting a completely different skirt — just a plain, knee length A-line. Maybe, like the fictional Leslie Knope, I just needed to learn that tulip skirts weren’t for me.

Or maybe, just maybe, there is a problem with the method or computer program this particular indie designer is using for pattern grading. Because the largest size seems to be too exaggerated — everything is blown out of proportion. You can only grade a couple of sizes up or down from any set size before this starts to happen, though most clothing retailers and many pattern designers do not bother with the extra expense of drafting two separate sample sizes and grading them both. (By the way, that’s why most women’s t-shirts are XS-S-M-L-XL — medium is the base size — and why many clothing lines only came in 6-8-10-12-14 back in the day.) Believe me, this shows on the largest sizes — and maybe on the smallest sizes, too. I have no idea about things on that end.

Anyway, having made an altogether new skirt, I did finish the dress over the weekend, and although it’s not my favorite thing in the world, it’s wearable. I took my lemons and made some sewing lemonade. But I also learned my lesson, and I will not be buying that anonymous brand of sewing pattern again. Sigh.

Pillowcases constructed on a whim.

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We got new sheets this weekend, and I opted not to use our duvet when I made the bed, as I have had some trouble sleeping in the heat — despite the ever-present air conditioning. This meant that I was short two pillowcases, so I made some.

They don’t match exactly, but they contrast in a weirdly pleasant way (and are blue, despite looking black in the photo). The pair took 2 1/2 yards of quilting cotton, and took less than 1 1/2 hours to make, including time spent pressing the fabric and cutting them out!

It felt nice to accomplish something with a concrete end product. And check out my ridiculous Scandinavian hipster style!

A month of tiny failures.

I started February’s A Month of Tiny Steps with the best of intentions. I ended February’s AMoTS with a solemn resolve to “do better next time.”

To begin with, I chose the exact wrong sort of thing to do: A close ended, single project that only lent itself to tiny steps at a couple of different stages. I know where I went wrong, and I won’t make the same mistake again. We’ll call this a “learning experience.”

These tiny steps were also meant to help in habit formation, and sewing is unlikely to be a daily habit for me (unless I end up making a living that way again). I’m not trying to build up a body of sewing work, or stretch my skills on a daily basis. Writing lends itself especially well to the tiny steps method, and I’ve had great results using the technique with knitting projects, too. I’m not much of an artist, but I can see how drawing (more than painting or sculpting) would be an excellent use of tiny steps, too. But sewing? Not so much.

Sewing is a flow activity for me. One step flows easily into the next, and 20 minutes is not enough when I am in that head space. I take lots of reasonable breaks when sewing, so I’m not likely to tire myself out more than usual. (Though I learned that the hard way.)

So I’m going to continue to sew the way I have had the most success. I use infrequent very good energy days to cut several projects at once, and then take as much time as I need to sew through the pre-cut projects. The last two or three times I’ve done this I have gotten much more done than cutting and sewing one project at a time.

Also – and I know this is a petty complaint, as I have a dedicated sewing area – I really hate leaving out the ironing board. I can, technically – it just barely fits by the bed – but it’s such a nuisance that I would rather put it away each time I finish sewing. So that’s also against the “have all your tools ready to go and portable” rule.

All that being said, I would like to sew more. I really do enjoy sewing, and I particularly like making my own clothes. But I will use my daily tiny steps for other activities in the future.

See? Learning experience.